How to replace the LCD in a Casio Ex-Z750 Digital Camera

At the end of 2005, we bought a Casio Ex-z750. In my mind, this digicam marked the high-water-point for Casio's foray into the digital camera market. Perhaps they have improved since then, but I haven't paid attention.

It's a small camera with a slightly larger sensor than its peers, fairly small but not the tiniest. It's quick, takes good MPEG4 movies, and has tons of manual modes. That's probably why Ken Rockwell flipped for it.

Anyway, ours got dropped a few months ago. About 60% of the LCD started showing white lines. I thought about getting another one, but they were too expensive on Ebay. So I picked up a Fuji F100fd - $135 with rebate. A great deal, just a little bigger than the Casio, but brighter LCD, better low-light sensitivity, and wider zoom range.

Then I noticed that replacing the LCD was a viable DIY prospect. So I bought one from a Chinese eBay seller for $26... about two weeks later, it arrived:

Nice, says CASIO right on it, even has a little hologram for authenticity.

This was my first time working on a digicam. I saw that you are supposed to buy a dead camera for your donor LCD, so you learn on it. Hmm, didn't do that, so I'll just have to be careful.

Speaking of being careful:
DISCLAIMER! CAMERAS HAVE FLASH CAPACITORS THAT CAN SHOCK YOU BADLY! Look on the web to learn more about the dangers. Mine had been sitting around with the battery out for a few weeks, so I felt safe...

YOU WILL NEED:

1. Phillips #00 Screwdriver
2. Patience
3. Steady hands
   

STEP 1: Remove Battery, SD card, etc. You probably don't have to do this, but I'd feel safer with the battery removed.

STEP 2: Remove back cover of the camera. There are two small screws on each end:

And, on the bottom, two slightly longer screws:

Gently pull off the rear cover. Disconnect the mode wheel and the "Play and Record" switch board from the cover.

STEP 3: Remove LCD

The LCD sits on top of a backlight panel in a metal frame. This little sandwich is held together with vinyl tape and also held in with detents on the metal frame. Remove the tape. You'll need to remove the metal frame to run the LCD wire ribbon below it.

Once you have the frame loose, you can flip up the little black flap on the wiring connector and slide out the ribbon connector to the LCD.

Step 4: Install LCD

Remove the plastic sheet stuck to both sides of the new LCD for shipping. Set the new LCD onto the frame, and slip the ribbon connector in place. Flip down the black tab to lock it in.

At this point, I fired up the camera to see if it would work:


Success! The LCD is just sitting loose on the backlight here.

STEP 5: "Assembly is the reverse of dissasembly" Slip the new LCD into the metal frame and screw it down into place. Fit the "Play" and "Record" switches onto the back panel. Assemble the panel and insert the four short and two long screws.

WORKS LIKE A CHAMP NOW!